Features

chef’s picks

By John Vollertsen, Photographs by Douglas Merriam
In Santa Fean's first-ever survey of local chefs, the kings and queens of our city's kitchens share their culinary insights. From Best Guacamole to Most Innovative Chef, here's what they prefer when they dine out, and why. Chefs' Picks

May 2007

The city's best restaurants chosen by those in the know-the ones in the
kitchen If you want to find an orthodontist, ask a dentist. If you want
to know the best car to buy, ask a mechanic. For great food, great
service, and great value-ask a chef! Which is exactly what we did. For
this first-ever survey of chefs' favorite restaurants, we put our
collective Santa Fean heads together and came up with a baker's dozen
questions designed to arm you, our readers, with a comprehensive view of
where, what, and why the big guns in the kitchen eat. But first, a huge
thanks to all the participants who took time out from their crazy
cooking schedules to put down their spatulas and take a pen to paper at
our request. So, for all of you food-savvy fans of the City Delectably
Different, here we have-out of the mouths of our respected and talented
culinary babes-the lowdown on the city's best eats, on everything from
the best deal to their favorite splurge. Bon appétit!

* BEST NEW MEXICAN RESTAURANT

Where do our chefs go for that uniquely New Mexican dish, when it's time
to contemplate life over a steaming bowl of posole or devour an entire
basket of sopaipillas? Perhaps it's no surprise that in our New-Mex-
food-centric town, no restaurant was singled out as heads above the
others. The most votes went to Maria's New Mexican Kitchen (555 W
Cordova, 983-7929, marias-santafe.com), where "the rellenos are the
bomb," says Kathy Maloney, executive chef at The Railyard. Charles
Kessels, Eldorado Hotel's new executive chef, gave the restaurant a
slight edge for its renowned margaritas and kid-friendly atmosphere.
"All restaurants get friendlier after a few margaritas," he explains.
Close seconds: La Choza (905 Alarid, 982-0909), El Paragua (603 Santa
Cruz, Española, 753-3211, elparagua.com, with mini-version El Parasol at
1833 Cerrillos, 995-8015), Tomasita's (500 S Guadalupe, 983-5721), Café
Pasqual's (103 E Water, 983-9340, pasquals.com), and Tia Sophia's (210 W
San Francisco, 983-9880).

* BEST GREEN CHILE

When it comes to getting your green on, Tia Sophia's (210 W San
Francisco, 983-9880) is the place, winning this year's "green" award.
"It never fails," raves Il Piatto's chef and owner, Matt Yohalem,
"prompt and delicious." Tomasita's (500 S Guadalupe, 983-5721) was not
far behind in the tallying. A few honorable mentions for sating your
hankering for verde: Red Enchilada (1310 Osage, 820-6552), El Tesoro
(500 Montezuma #104, 988-3886), Dave's Not Here (1115 Hickox, 983-7060),
and Horseman's Haven (4353 Cerrillos, 471-5420).

* BEST RED CHILE

No waffling here: The Shed (113 1/2 E Palace, 982-9030, sfshed.com) won
chiles-down when it comes to serving the city's best rojo. Also
garnering votes for the red heat: Coyote Café (132 W Water, 983-1615,
coyotecafe.com), La Choza (905 Alarid, 982-0909), and Tecolote Café
(1203 Cerrillos, 988-1362, tecolotecafe.com).

* BEST GUACAMOLE

Who can resist guacamole made to order at your table? Apparently none,
as the famous Gabriel's (off Hwy 285/84, 505-455-7000), in Pojoaque,
ranked bowls above the rest. Churned at your table from only natural
ingredients, this yummy green stuff is worth the 15-minute drive.
"Tableside greatness," says Ronnie Sanchez, the chef at Baleen. Coming
in as a distant second: Coyote Café.

* BEST MARGARITA

Shaken or frozen, salted or not, Maria's New Mexican Kitchen (555 W
Cordova, 505-983-7929, marias-santafe.com) won this category with flying
colors. Of course it did: gregarious owner Al Lucero wrote the
definitive guide, The Great Margarita Book. Plus, the restaurant serves
up over 100 varieties, all of them made from real tequila (at least 51
percent agave juice), which Lucero claims is the key. The chefs' raves
poured in: "Best tequila selection anywhere" ... "over 100 tequilas-set
'em up!"

* BEST NON-NEW MEX

When it's anything other than our regional culinary fare, what do chefs
crave? The Italian-style cuisine of Andiamo (322 Garfield, 995-9595,
andiamoonline.com) rated high, along with the sophisticated fare at The
Compound (653 Canyon, 982-4353, compound restaurant.com) and Kasasoba
(544 Agua Fria, 984-1969). Ronnie Sanchez, of Baleen, says simply,
Chow's Contemporary Chinese (720 St. Michael's, 471-7120, mychows.com)
is "food done right."

* BEST COMFORT FOOD

Whether they go for the equitorial-inspired dishes at Cafe Pasqual's
(121 Don Gaspar, 983-9340, pasquals.com) or the ultracasual Bert's
Burger Bowl (235 N Guadalupe, 982-0215)-"no one beats these burgers,"
says Anasazi's Martin Rios-chefs cannot live on foie gras alone. Honey
Howard's Cajun creations at LeMoyne's Landing (402 N Guadalupe,
820-2268) so enticed Matt Yohalem of Il Piatto fame "that I married
her," he says. Other spots that rank high for home cooking: Joe's Diner
(2801 Rodeo, 471-3800, joesdinerandpizza.com), "diner food-say no
more," reports one chef; Back Street Bistro (513 Camino de los Marquez,
982-3500); and Harry's Roadhouse (96 Old Las Vegas Highway, 989-4629).

* BEST NEW RESTAURANT

James Campbell Caruso must be doing something right, as his recently
opened La Boca (72 W Marcy, 982-3433) restaurant is a hit among this
culinary crew-overwhelmingly named as the city's best new spot. Maybe
it's the tasty tapas. Other startups worth a visit: Whole Hog Café (3006
Cerrillos, 474-3375) and Josh's BBQ, so new it hadn't even opened its
doors at press time, although one chef confided: "I've tasted Josh's
recipes, and his is the best barbecue around." And with Paul Wade's
recent move north to De La Tierra, in Taos, he's spending time at Joe's
Mainstreet Bakery (112 Dona Luz, 758-9610), the recently revamped
low-key café created by Joseph Wrede, of Joseph's Table fame.

* FAMILY-FRIENDLY

Dining with kids can be a tricky endeavor, but judging by the votes,
Santa Fe has more than a handful of options. And while no restaurant
came up a clear winner, consider the following next time you're out with
the children in tow: The Cowgirl (319 S Guadalupe, 988-4227), offering a
back patio complete with playground toys and a generous menu that'll
please even the pickiest of ankle-biters; Osaka Japanese Restaurant
(3501 Zafarano, 471-6698), with whirring knives, food aflame, and a chef
that's the center of the attention; and Blue Corn Café (133 Water,
984-1800, and 4056 Cerrillos #G, 438-1800). Not far behind were Second
Street Brewery (1814 Second, 982-3030, secondstreet brewery.com),
Counter Culture Café (930 Baca, 995-1105), and Los Potrillos (1947
Cerrillos, 992-0550).

* MOST ROMANTIC

Julian's Italian Restaurant (221 Shelby, 988-2355, juliansof
santafe.com) has consistently been voted "most romantic" by local polls,
and ours was no exception. Perhaps it's the Italian cuisine served in
the cozy adobe setting-although a change in ownership (David Sellars of
Santacafé will be coming aboard) means a transformation may be in store.
Coming in a close second: Bistro 315 (315 Old Santa Fe Trail, 986-9190,
315santafe.com) and Fuego at La Posada (330 E Palace, 986-0000). And of
course, our triple crown of high-end restaurants-Geronimo (724 Canyon,
982-1500, geronimorestaurant.com), The Compound (653 Canyon, 982-4353,
compoundrestaurant.com), and the Eldorado Hotel's The Old House (309 W
San Francisco, 988-4455)-also won raves.

* THE IN SPOT

Where do you go to see and be seen in Santa Fe? The chic and classic
Santacafé (112 W Marcy, 984-1788) was in a dead heat with the new La
Boca (72 W Marcy, 982-3433) as the latest, greatest place to dine.
"James is keeping his admirable spot full daily," one chef notes of La
Boca. Also, be on the lookout for the Anasazi Restaurant's new patio
opening this spring. According to executive chef Martin Rios, "it will
be very hot!"

* BEST APPETIZER

Who doesn't love beginning a meal with a sumptuous munchie?

The tapas at El Mesón (213 Washington, 983-6756, elmeson-santafe.com)
ranked high, along with the pistachio-crusted goat cheese at Rooftop
Pizzeria (60 E San Francisco #301, 984-0008, rooftoppizzeria.com), the
calamari at Santacafé (see page 53), sweetbreads and foie gras at The
Compound; and the tuna sashimi at Kasasoba, (544 Agua Fria #B,
984-7969)-"the best around!" exclaims Kim Mueller, La Mancha's new chef.

* BEST DESSERT

Sometimes, the best things in life come last. For memorable meal-enders,
The Compound's liquid chocolate cake made the biggest singular
impression, so hats off to Mark Kiffin for this decadent and delicious
concoction. La Boca's James Campbell Caruso confesses to popping across
the street for a bite of Il Piatto's tiramisu (95 W Marcy, 984-1091,
ilpiattorestaurant.com). Also singled out: El Mesón's cream Catalan,
Cafe Ecco's strawberry habanero gelato (105 E Marcy, 986-9778,
cafeecco.com), Zia Diner's homemade pies (326 S Guadalupe, 988-7008,
ziadiner.com), and La Casa Sena's red chile chocolate soup (125 E
Palace, 988-9232, lacasasena.com), a Souper Bowl winner two years in a
row.

* BEST BAR

Let's face it, Santa Fe isn't known for its nightlife. That said, there
are still some worthy spots: Rio Chama (414 Old Santa Fe Trail,
955-0765, riochamasteakhouse.com), the top pick, perhaps, for its
expansive booths and late-night bar menu; the Pink Adobe's Dragon Room
(406 Old Santa Fe Trail, 983-7712), a local institution for decades, and
the Tin Star Saloon (411 W Water, 984-5050), the new joint in town.
"Check it out," advises Xavier Grenet of Ristra.

* BEST SERVICE

"Service in Santa Fe is too uneven," quipped one chef about the City
Different's customer care. But despite a reputation for
less-than-stellar service, some restaurants were lauded for their
attention to detail. The Compound-and, in particular, "Fly Fly
Freddie"-just squeaked past Geronimo when it comes to quality waitstaff.
"Professional, attentive, and knowledgeable," praises Kim Muller of La
Mancha. The Railyard Saloon's Kathy Maloney complimented India Palace
(227 Don Gaspar, 986-5859, indiapalace.com) for its "unbelievable
attention to detail."

* BEST DEAL

Everybody loves a bargain-and our local chefs are quite creative when it
comes to serving them up. While there were no clear winners, some worthy
mentions include three courses for $29 and half-off wine at O'Keeffe
Café (217 Johnson, 992-1065, okeeffemuseum.org) on Sundays, and The
Compound's numerous items for under $20; as well as Cleopatra Café (418
Cerrillos #4, 820-7381), Il Piatto, and Counter Culture Café (930 Baca,
995-1105), for large portions at low prices.

* BEST SPLURGE

The Compound won hands down in this important category. Says one chef:
"If you're willing to pay, it's probably the single best restaurant in
town." Another comment: "Good food. Good wine list. Good room."
Santacafé came in a close second- especially its wine dinners-with
Trattoria Nostrani (304 Johnson, 983-3800, trattorianostrani.com) also
recognized as a high-end treat.

* MOST INNOVATIVE CHEF

Who do our chefs think is setting new culinary trends, pushing the
envelope, and exploring new food ideas that set them apart from the
pack? We know ... all of you are (as witnessed by the frank comment "My
ego is getting in the way of this question!"), but we had to ask. The
winner when it comes to innovation: a tie between longtime Santa Fe chef
Martin Rios, now with Anasazi Restaurant (113 Washington, 988-3236,
innoftheanasazi.com), and relative newcomer Nellie Maltezos from
Trattoria Nostrani.

* BEST NEWCOMER

Which recent arrivals are showing great promise? John Cox of Baleen in
the Inn at the Loretto (211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 984-7915,
innatloretto.com) got high marks, followed closely by Maxime Bouneou,
who's proficiently filling the clogs of Rahm Fama at Fuego. Another one
to watch: Malik Hammond at Sunrise Springs's Blue Heron Restaurant (242
Los Pinos, 428-3600, sunrisesprings.com).

* MOST UNDERRATED CHEF

While many chefs manage to find media coverage, happy to self-promote in
the name of good business, it's the quiet ones you should look out for.
To me, this may well be the most valued category, and David Huertas, the
chef and owner of El Mesón, who serves up an authentic Spanish menu in a
charming locale, overwhelmingly takes the cake. "I'm always happy when I
leave El Mesón," says Tom Kerpon, executive chef at Rio Chama. Another:
"Honest Spanish food." Enough said.

To further help you navigate the city's numerous restaurants, see our
Dining Directory, page 57.